lemon lime philodendron trailing Philodendron hederaceum 'Lime' ('Neon') – Foliage Factory
SKU: 27987761142
lemon lime philodendron trailing

lemon lime philodendron trailing Philodendron hederaceum 'Lime' ('Neon') – Foliage Factory

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Description

lemon lime philodendron trailing Philodendron hederaceum 'Lime' ('Neon') – Foliage FactoryPhilodendron hederaceum Lime (Neon) Philodendron hederaceum Lime (Neon) is a bright chartreuse heartleaf Philodendron with slim vining stems and vivid yellow green leaves. New growth opens in fresh lime tones, then matures into softer green. The leaves are heart shaped, with a cordate base, pointed tip and smooth surface. Young plants usually make smaller leaves on longer, flexible vines; stems given a pole, plank or trellis can sit flatter and size

Philodendron hederaceum ‘Lime’ (‘Neon’)

Philodendron hederaceum ‘Lime’ (‘Neon’) is a bright chartreuse heartleaf Philodendron with slim vining stems and vivid yellow-green leaves. New growth opens in fresh lime tones, then matures into softer green.

The leaves are heart-shaped, with a cordate base, pointed tip and smooth surface. Young plants usually make smaller leaves on longer, flexible vines; stems given a pole, plank or trellis can sit flatter and size up more evenly as aerial roots find contact.

Chartreuse heart leaves on slim vining stems

  • Young leaves open bright lime before maturing into softer green.
  • Slender stems can trail from a pot or be guided upward on a pole, plank or trellis.
  • Heart-shaped leaves stay thin, soft and flexible on the vine.
  • Visible nodes make pruning and stem cuttings straightforward.
  • Several rooted cuttings in one pot give the vine denser early growth.

Compact early growth and climbing behaviour

Philodendron hederaceum belongs to Araceae, the aroid family. The species is native from Mexico through Tropical America and grows as an epiphyte in the wet tropical biome, where stems can attach to tree trunks and continue upward through humid forest vegetation.

Indoors, aerial-root nubs can grip a pole, plank or trellis, helping the vine hold position and keep leaves closer together. While the stems are short, ‘Lime’ (‘Neon’) stays neat in a smaller pot; as the vines lengthen, rotate the pot occasionally for even growth and prune stretched stems above a node to encourage new side shoots.

Keeping Philodendron ‘Lime’ bright and evenly spaced

  • Light: Give bright indirect light for compact growth; harsh direct sun can mark the thinner leaves.
  • Watering: Water when the upper part of the mix has dried and the pot feels lighter; the fleshy roots dislike staying wet in dense soil.
  • Substrate: Use an airy aroid mix with bark, perlite or pumice and a moisture-holding base so oxygen reaches the roots between waterings.
  • Temperature: Keep it warm, ideally above 18 °C, and avoid cold windowsills or draughty shelves.
  • Humidity: Moderate indoor humidity is usually suitable; steadier humidity can help new leaves open cleanly on longer vines.
  • Repotting: Repot when roots have filled the pot, using a container with drainage and only a modest size increase.
  • Fertilizing: Feed lightly during active growth; excess fertilizer can stress the root zone and mark soft new growth.
  • Propagation: Stem cuttings root from nodes, especially when each cutting has at least one healthy leaf and one visible node.
  • Semi-hydroponics: The plant can adapt to inert or mineral substrates if roots are transitioned carefully and kept oxygenated.
  • Placement: Place it where vines have room to trail or climb, away from harsh direct sun and cold air movement.
  • Training and pruning: Pinch or cut above a node to encourage side shoots; guide selected vines upward if larger, flatter leaves are preferred.
  • Growth rate: Growth is usually moderate to fast in warmth, bright indirect light and a loose, evenly managed root zone.

Lime leaves, long internodes and root-zone checks

  • Long gaps between leaves: Usually caused by low light or unsupported trailing stems; move the plant brighter or train the vine upward.
  • Soft yellowing leaves: Check for a wet lower pot and compacted mix before watering again.
  • Brown patches on lime leaves: Direct sun, dry roots or fertilizer buildup can show quickly on pale tissue; flush the mix and adjust placement.
  • Small new leaves: Check root health, warmth and whether older vines need pruning or climbing support.
  • Pests on new tips: Inspect the soft new growth and petiole bases for thrips, mealybugs or mites if leaves emerge distorted.

Safety

Philodendron hederaceum ‘Lime’ (‘Neon’) contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. Keep it away from pets that chew plants, and wash hands after pruning if the sap contacts sensitive skin.

Botanical name and lime form

Philodendron hederaceum was published by Heinrich Wilhelm Schott as Philodendron hederaceum (Jacq.) Schott in Wiener Zeitschrift für Kunst, Litteratur, Theater und Mode 1829(3): 780, published 6 August 1829. Philodendron comes from Greek roots for tree-loving growth, and hederaceum comes from Latin for ivy-like, matching the species’ climbing stems.

Philodendron hederaceum ‘Lime’ (‘Neon’) brings vivid chartreuse heart leaves to a flexible vine that can stay compact when young, trail softly from a pot or climb into broader, more mature growth.

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CV S.
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Wow. What an amazing product. I own a 1976 Bertram 42 aft cabin motor yacht. The previous owner had not waxed it in a good long time. I spent a weekend with four friends sweating and laboring using the traditional wet sanding, buffing, and waxing it's heavily oxidized finish. One of the friends helping was a former professional boat detailer. The results were ok. The wax job lasted about six months before it looked like crap. There's a lot of controversy over Poli Glow. A number of the old fellows who sit around drinking coffee in the marina clubhouse swear that nothing should go on a boat except the most expensive and laborious traditional wax, preferably applied by a crew of of professionals. They universally ranted about the failings of Poli Glow despite having no practical experience. They also talk more than they actually boat, so I didn't listen to them. I was cautious, and started with my heavily oxidized flybridge. I wanted to work my way top to bottom and I figured if I hated the look, I could stop and it wouldn't really noticeable. It was easy to use. I bought the complete kit. Mixed the prep. Sprayed and scrubbed. Wow that stuff gets things clean and even. I wiped the Poli Glow on with the provided mitt. Tip: really, you needs to let each coat dry before applying the next. It was noticeable alright. From the dock you can now see an actual reflection of my antennae in the now shiny Fiberglas. It's amazing. I did find that the more oxidized portions were thirsty as heck and took a lot of coats. The results are worth it. Application is way less laborious than buffing and waxing. If you can wipe clean a countertop in your kitchen or galley you can Poli Glow like a pro. It's that stupidly easy. Where the gel coat was reasonably smooth the product built a mirror finish. I didn't even put her on the hard. I applied it while it was docked. I couldn't have five that with a buffer. My pro detailer friend was totally surprised at the result. Bottom line: if you have an older sad looking boat this stuff can make it shiny and happy with minimal labor. Good stuff well worth the price.
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Overall great product, especially on solid colours.
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The skinny...
Cuba, US
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I am hard to please...especially expensive products...
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YOU WILL LOVE IT!!!
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