philodendron gloriosum x pastazanum Philodendron Dean McDowell
SKU: 36792826041
philodendron gloriosum x pastazanum

philodendron gloriosum x pastazanum Philodendron Dean McDowell

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Description

philodendron gloriosum x pastazanum Philodendron Dean McDowellPhilodendron 'Dean McDowell' (gloriosum pastazanum) Philodendron 'Dean McDowell' is a large crawling Philodendron hybrid created from Philodendron gloriosum and Philodendron pastazanum. It grows from a creeping stem that travels across the substrate surface, producing broad heart shaped leaves with pale venation and a softly textured, quilted look as the plant matures. The crawling stem needs horizontal room to advance, with each node able to touch

Philodendron 'Dean McDowell' (gloriosum × pastazanum)

Philodendron 'Dean McDowell' is a large crawling Philodendron hybrid created from Philodendron gloriosum and Philodendron pastazanum. It grows from a creeping stem that travels across the substrate surface, producing broad heart-shaped leaves with pale venation and a softly textured, quilted look as the plant matures.

The crawling stem needs horizontal room to advance, with each node able to touch the substrate and root as it moves. A wide planter lets the leading stem extend across the mix, settle at the surface and root from successive nodes.

Broad veined leaves on a crawling stem

  • Parentage: Philodendron gloriosum × Philodendron pastazanum.
  • Growth habit: Creeping stem that travels across the substrate surface.
  • Foliage: Broad cordate leaves with pale venation and a softly raised surface.
  • Pot shape: Best matched with a wider container that allows the leading stem to keep moving.
  • Maturity cue: Large leaves develop more reliably when new nodes root into the mix and emerging blades expand in steady humidity.

Wide-planter growth from gloriosum × pastazanum

Philodendron 'Dean McDowell' was created by John Banta in 1988 from Philodendron gloriosum × Philodendron pastazanum and named after his friend Dean McDowell. The parent species are South American Philodendron species from wet tropical regions: Philodendron gloriosum is native to Colombia, while Philodendron pastazanum is native from Ecuador to Peru.

The visible stem should sit on or just above the substrate, with nodes in contact with the mix. Burying the stem too deeply can trap moisture around the growth points, while leaving the leading stem unsupported at the pot edge can slow new root formation. A loose top layer of airy mix helps new roots enter the substrate as the plant expands.

Even moisture, airy mix and horizontal stem contact

  • Light: Provide bright indirect light, around 10,000–20,000 lux, to support large leaves while protecting the soft surface from scorch.
  • Watering: Water once the top 30–40% of the mix has dried; the creeping stem performs best with even moisture and good oxygen around the roots.
  • Substrate: Use a chunky but moisture-retentive aroid mix with bark, coco fibre, perlite or pumice and a small humus fraction.
  • Pot shape: Repot sideways into a wider planter when the leading stem reaches the pot edge.
  • Humidity: Aim for 60% or higher where possible, especially while large new leaves expand.
  • Temperature: Keep at 18–28°C and protect the root zone from cold floors and winter draughts.
  • Feeding: Feed at low to moderate strength in active growth to keep new leaves well sized and evenly coloured.
  • Repotting: Position the creeping stem on top of the mix with nodes touching the substrate, then secure it gently if needed.

Leaf tears, edge marks and smaller new leaves

  • New leaf tears: Often linked to low humidity, handling or cramped growth; give the next leaf more space and stable moisture.
  • Yellowing around the stem base: Check whether the creeping stem is buried too deeply or sitting in constantly wet mix.
  • Brown leaf edges: Look for dry root pockets, low humidity or fertiliser buildup in the substrate.
  • Small new leaves: Usually means the plant needs stronger indirect light, healthier roots or more horizontal room.
  • Pale speckling: Inspect the broad leaf backs carefully for spider mites or thrips.

Pet and child safety

Philodendron 'Dean McDowell' is toxic if ingested. Like other Philodendron plants, it contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that can irritate the mouth and throat. Keep cuttings, damaged leaves and pruning waste away from pets and small children.

John Banta, Dean McDowell and the parent species

Philodendron belongs to Araceae, and the genus name comes from Greek roots meaning “tree-loving”. Philodendron 'Dean McDowell' is a documented gloriosum × pastazanum hybrid named for Dean McDowell.

Choose Philodendron 'Dean McDowell' for a broad-leaved crawling Philodendron with pale venation, horizontal growth and a wide-planter habit.

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A
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AB
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 5
High quality and robust
Size: 12 Pairs, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Easily the best plugs I've found at a reasonable price. Solid feeling with good quality and they look good with easy to see red/black labeling. The tips tend to unscrew too easily, but this is a non-issue when they are in use, just something you have to be careful not to lose when assembling. It's a bit tricky to spread the wire out evenly at the exact right length. If screwing the plug together is hard at all, go back and shorten how much wire you bend over the lip.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 16, 2025
W
Verified Purchase
William
San Leandro, US
★★★★★ 5
Solid banana clips
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Ah yes, I used these solid banana plugs to convert my wires. It’s pretty easy to set up once the wire housing has been stripped and really cleans things up nicely. I haven’t had any discernable hissing, noise problems, or connection issues.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
L
Verified Purchase
Leyland Cypress
Boise, US
★★★★★ 3
Get the right wire guage
Size: 1 Count (Pack of 1), Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
I rate the banana plugs themselves 4 stars. They are everything I expected and work as advertised. It's the experience of assembly that I rate three stars. The way these work is -- you strip off the outer insullation of your wire and separate the two leads (positive and negative). Then you strip some length of insulation off the end of one of your leads, you unscrew the banana plug so that it separates into its respective base (lower) and contact (upper) halves, you slip the wire up through the base, you flare the copper strands of the wire and fold the individual strands over the very top of the base (about 1/16 of an inch) (taking care not to extend the strands over the threaded barrel of the base), then you screw the upper contact onto the lower base and voila, banana plug / wire assembly. It's not as complicated as it sounds. Go to the Monoprice website and watch their excellent instructional video. Here's the thing though. While the assembly is not complicated, it is tricky, and if you don't get your proportions right the first or second or third time, you'll have to do it over. Fist of all, if your wire guage is relatively thin, like my 16-guage speaker wire, you'll find that the entire wire, insullation and all, will slip right through the base of the plug without butting up against the bottom of the base. If this is the case, then the wire is left to sort of flop around inside the plug and that has a kind of unfinished, amateur look and feel to it, whereas if the wire butts up against the bottom of the base, it has a solid, one-piece professional look. So, to my mind, there's a sweet-spot for wire guage that works best with this plug -- not too thin and not too thick. And since Monoprice has debunked the thicker-is-better myth (the quality of the copper is the real determinant), then you should feel free to get the wire guage that fits the plug. Next -- and here's where it gets tricky -- once your copper extends beyond the top of the base, you'll need to limit this extension to about a sixteenth (no greatrer than a fourth) of an inch. Then you very delicately flare out the individual strands, in a 360- degree arc, and fold the strands over the top of the base. This takes a fair degree of manual dexterity, especially if the wire is "floating" inside the base and its travel is not stopped where the insullation meets the base. You'll have to hold the wire and base steady in the fingers of one hand, then flare out the wire strands with either your fingers or a suitable object (the working end of a ball-point pen worked for me) with the other hand. This one-sixteenth measure is important. If you extend wire strands beyond the top and over the threads of the base, you'll find that screwing the contact end onto the base is impossible and you'll need to start over. One or two strands is OK and almost unavoidable. In that case the screwing will catch but if you take a pair of pliers to it you can muscle through. By the way, you can avoid the whole mess by getting the open-screw type, which I'm sure will work just as well without any of the hassle of assembly. Like anything else, if you do it a few times to make the mistakes and learn the tricks, then it will become second nature, and if you've already done that, then my review might seem overly fussy. In that case feel free to leave comments to help other readers.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 15, 2012
J
Verified Purchase
JBDoge
Alexandria, US
★★★★★ 5
Wish they came with instructions...
They are cheap and work great. They plug right into my Pioneer vsx521 receiver and my Paradigm Atom monitor speakers. I wish they came with instructions, because it took me about 10 minutes to realize the bottom part unscrews in addition to the top part. Here are my instructions for installation: 1) Unscrew the bottom part of this connector (the thin metal underneath the red/black ring). 2) Make sure the Banana Plug (which may be loosely screwed into the top part of the connector) is fully tightened down 3) Strip your wire tips to 3/8 of an inch (or just slightly under) 4) Run the first newly stripped wire end through the bottom part you removed in step 1, such that the stripped end of the wire is entering through the flat end and exiting through the smaller threaded end. 5) Leave about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch of stripped wire hanging past the exit hole. 6) As evenly spaced as possible, bend the over-hanging wire strands over the exit hole (all around it, like a hat). If done properly, the wire should not fall out if you give it a VERY GENTLE tug. 7) Screw the top metal part (with the actual banana plug) back onto the bottom part. It may be difficult if your stripped wire is hanging too low. I've used a pair of pliers to grip the bottom part of the connector while I twist the banana plug side with my hand. If done correctly, you should be able to put a lot of tension between the wire and connector without removing/damaging it. UPDATE: I just recently helped my dad install his 5.1 system without these... it sucked... This item (5 pairs of them in this case) and a good wire stripper can save you alot of pain (both physical and mental). The connectors on the back of his receiver are the kind where bare wire comes in from the side and then the connectors screw down (with a banana plug hole in the center which is where this product would come into play). I felt like a surgeon trying to get a bare wire end into the little slot, and then holding it there while I tighten the connector which is almost impossible since they are so close together... GET THESE!
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Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2012
R
Verified Purchase
R. Jackson
Birmingham, US
★★★★★ 1
'Monoprice' = Worst stereo banana plugs on T-H-E market.
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
The absolute WORST in stereo banana plugs - HANDS DOWN. After installing stereos and components for over 30 years, I'd say I'm experienced. These banana plugs fail at EVERY part of the design. Allow me to explain... 1) Starting with the tips, they are loose off the bat and fit LOOSELY in either the stereo input studs or speaker input studs by their 'girth'. They do not firmly seat in any plug and for this setup, I'm using a nearly $2K setup all together. They 'rock' back and forth (when inserted) and thus create a non-permanent connection, again, seriously making these utter junk. I've seen some items you can get by with over the years, but these aren't even rock bottom. They are unusable! 2) Next, the banana plugs themselves comes as three pieces. No non loosening o-ring seal but a plastic colored want-to-be imitation for positive and negative notation. Why do these stupid things come in three pieces? - I simply can't tell you why. I do know they serve no specific piece to solving the puzzle of installation so why do they come in three pieces...? My speculation is they are cheap china knockoffs. 3) The 'way' in which you normally install the trimmed wiring internally with the 'two-piece' design permits you to firmly CRIMP and hold the unsheathed wiring; but these do not. The overlap/overlay of the exposed wiring can only be about 2/16's of an inch thus not much to create a proper connection with. This single fact eliminates these plugs as even worthwhile component add ons; period. If you can't achieve a good ground/wiring connection, these are a defeated purpose... 4) Because of the design of these, they have no room to crimp and screw on the cable so your forced to nearly break your fingers in an attempt to get the unsheathed wire to overlay the internal threading and twist them on with all your might. This in effect breaks nearly every wire thread internally and then they breaks off inside. Absolute garbage. These are total pieces of non-quality junk that did nothing but makes me waste 30 minutes on attempting to get them securely on and another 25 to locate my Amazon account, find this product in my order and ALARM anyone else from making the same mistake I made. Now, I find out I can't even get a return on these. Thanks Amazon. Thank you third party retailer. You just made me a very dissatisfied decade long customer.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 17, 2016

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